Baso is a rarity in Houston. The Heights restaurant is stripped bare and serves Basque-Nordic-Japanese catnip for the Noma crowd, each plate of pil-pil-oil-this and pistachio-layered-that parading ...

Then came Baso in the Heights. Helmed by chefs Jacques Varon and Max Lappe, this Basque live-fire restaurant offers front-row counter seats to the heat as chefs fan the flames, sparks fly ...